Chess playing on the street

Most of us probably assume that chessmasters such as Eugene Torre, Mark Paragua, and Ronald Bancod in the Philippines practice their craft in cozy chess clubs where the surroundings emit a certain air of affluence such as found in modern and air-conditioned bowling centers or billiard halls.

Little do people know that some aspiring and professional chess players in the country go to only three places to hone their skills: the Luneta Chess Park, the Quezon Memorial Circle, and most especially, the Tulay.

The Tulay, located under the west stairs of a pedestrian overpass along Epifanio Delos Santos Avenue at the corner of Monte de Piedad Street in Barangay Immaculate Concepcion, Cubao, is renowned for being the most rugged of all chess venues in Metro Manila. It is composed of nothing but a few sets of chessboards, tables, and chairs.

And the man behind this simple yet offbeat scheme is 44-year-old Rolly Espino. For Espino, renting out chess equipment at the Tulay has been his livelihood for over a decade.

He, whom the locals fondly call Tulfo after he lost his right arm in a freak accident at a coffee factory some 24 years ago, spends nearly 12 hours every day, rain or shine, manning the place. Sometimes he stays on until the wee hours of morning since some of his visitors continue to play on. He also sells coffee and cigarettes to complement his main income.

Espino said some of the Philippines’ finest chess players come to the Tulay to practice for the national tournament such as: Soud Mamailaw, Roberto Suelo, Luis Abraiham, Rudy Ibanez, Chito Garma, Louis Chong, and Joey Antonio-- all masters in different classes.

He added that, sometimes, a few come to play for money. Bets would run from tens to hundreds of pesos. Occasionally, it gets them into trouble with the police. Although some police officers would just stop by, drink coffee, and once in a while join a game.

He even brags that the Tulay has more visiting players than in Luneta Park and the Quezon City Circle since it is more accessible and cheaper. Americans, Germans, and other foreigners also like to play there. Even one Iranian national became a regular visitor, he said.

Espino, a former newspaper vendor, said it was in 1987 when he first unwittingly stumbled into the trade of chessboard rentals. Initially, he was just doing his usual chore of selling his wares in the area one day, when suddenly two young men decided to play a game of chess to kill time under the said overpass. After asking for Espino’s permission to place a chessboard beside his spot, they quickly began to play.

This prompted many passersby to stop and gather around to watch their private tournament. Espino narrated that the whole incident was a sight to see. Soon afterwards, the two youngsters would meet daily beside Espino’s spot to play chess the whole day.

But one fine afternoon, somebody snatched their chessboard under their noses while they were having their coffee break. This did not stop them and instead they suggested to Espino that maybe he should buy several chessboards and rent them out so that some of their chess buddies can also play.

After some careful consideration, he agreed to do it. Soon he was able to buy five brand new chessboards and game clocks. He also built five sets of wooden tables and chairs.

Today, he charges three pesos an hour for every board and five pesos if played with a game clock.

Despite his obvious disability, Espino said his earnings are just enough to survive the city and send some money to his relatives in Cabiao, Nueva Ecija.

He said he is quite content with his daily earnings of P350 and the chance that maybe one of these days he might be able to witness the emergence of a Filipino world champion in his spot.